Almost 20 years after the recognition of the Docg, the producers of Colline Teramane Montepulciano d’Abruzzo are taking stock at Anteprima 2022. The preview, staged on Wednesday 2 March in Teramo, was a useful way of sounding out the state of the art of a denomination that wants to make its way through the minefield of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. One of the Italian wines most loved by the general public, both Italian and international.

The just 172 hectares of the Docg and annual production of around 450,000 bottles are a comprehensive snapshot of a “niche” that intends to stand out in the Abruzzo wine scene, especially in terms of price positioning and enhancement of the vineyard park.

It is no coincidence that the word most frequently used in the introductory speech to the press by the President of the Consortium, Enrico Cerulli Irelli (in the photo, below) was «identity».

A theme that unites the 39 member wineries of the Roseto degli Abruzzi-based organisation, which was set up in 2003 and immediately became – despite its limited size in terms of representation – the home of the most constructive debate on the future of Montepulciano.

WORK IN PROGRESS AND CLEAR IDEAS IN THE DENOMINATION

Twenty-one Colline Teramane Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Docg wines will be tasted during Anteprima 2022 (2020, 2019, 2018 and 2015), alongside eighteen Riserva wines from the 2017, 2016, 2015, 2013 and 2011 vintages. Net of the style of the individual producers, better the former than the latter.

The Riserva, like many other Italian wine denominations, seems to pay the price of an anachronistic interpretation of the very concept of “vino riserva”. So here we have over-extraction, fatness and an overabundant use of wood, covering primary and varietal wines. And to stun, in the end, that thoroughbred horse that Montepulciano d’Abruzzo can be, in various regional interpretations.

The dust on the shoulders of many Riserva wines is swept away by the enjoyment and freshness of several Colline Teramane Docg. The 21 ‘basic’ wines on tasting, ranging from the Adriatic coastal strip to the hills and mountains of the Gran Sasso, show all the variability and proactivity of a territory that is, all things considered, limited, but which does not renounce ‘sub-zonal’ interpretations of Montepulciano.

SUPERIOR TYPE COMING SOON

Between the Colline Teramane Docg “Giovane” (aged for a minimum of one year and put on the market from November 1st of the year after the harvest) and the Colline Teramane Docg “Riserva” (aged for at least three years, of which at least one in wood) a new type will soon be introduced.

This is “Superiore”, which will be placed in the middle of the quality pyramid. All this in the context of a wine-producing Abruzzo that is experiencing a moment of great dynamism.

In addition to the elections that are now imminent in the regional wine consortium (the election of a representative from Cantina Tollo is almost taken for granted, the hottest name being that of president Tonino Verna), a local Fivi delegation has recently been set up, bringing together 20 independent winemakers from Abruzzo and two from Molise.

TERAMO HILLS MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO DOCG PREVIEW: THE TASTING

• Colline Teramane Docg 2020 Versosera, Velenosi (Ascoli Piceno)
  Very bright colour, visibly young. Great pulpy fruit. Nice energy, vibrant and lively nose. Oxygenation brings citrus tones and accentuates the floral part. Very nice nose, harmonious and taut. The palate confirms the impressions: lively, fresh, vibrant wine. It lacks a bit of specific weight in the middle of the mouth, but it is drinkable. It closes with citrus and spices, always in a harmonious way. 86/100
• Colline Teramane Docg 2020, Tenuta Terraviva (Tortoreto)
  Less intense colour than the previous one, good transparency and luminosity. Deep but delicate, floral nose. Crisp fruit that is just ripe. The tannins are a little aggressive, on a flesh that is a little wanting. 82/100
• Colline Teramane Docg 2020 Le Murate, Nicodemi (Notaresco)
  Medium intense ruby red colour. Nice full nose, rightly fat, pulpy, maturity of the fruit that comes close to jammy but does not hit the mark. Beautiful floral notes, fresh mentholated and spicy chimes. In the mouth everything is about elegance and tension: citrus on the red-fleshed forest fruit, tannin that will integrate, already very elegant. 85/100
• Colline Teramane Docg 2020, Emidio Pepe (Torano Nuovo)
  Tank sample. Deep red, violet rim. The new entry from the Pepe house disappoints. After a promising nose, all about flowers and fruit, here is a somewhat empty centre of the mouth. The length on the finish is even more lacking. 82/100
• Colline Teramane Docg 2020 Yang 2020 (Roseto degli Abruzzi)
  This is one of those stylish Montepulciano wines, capable of identifying the producer’s hand and intentions, as well as his idea of the variety. It starts off with a light colour that is noticeable in the battery, of beautiful luminosity. The nose is also remarkable, combining flowers, fruit and spices in a very elegant, refined way. A thoroughbred Montepulciano, yet one that is pawing at its typicality. Even in the mouth it is confirmed as such: very young, with good average ageing potential. 87/100
• Colline Teramane Docg 2019, Fantini (Roseto degli Abruzzi)
  Deep, impenetrable colour. Wood in great evidence on the nose, it covers the fruit a little. There is, however, an appreciable balsamic component, of mint. It is also deep and balsamic on the palate. A wine that will certainly appeal to the Eastern and American markets. 84/100
• Colline Teramane Docg 2019 Fonte Raviliano, De Angelis Corvi (Controguerra)
  Another tank test, but this one convinces, and how. Loaded colour. Beautiful blackberry in a nose that opens slowly. Very elegant spice, Mediterranean scrub. The fruit is confirmed as pulpy on the palate, on a dense tannic weave of absolute perspective. A thoroughbred Montepulciano. A wine that will be very important. 89/100
• Colline Teramane Docg 2019 Colle Sale, Barone di Valforte (Silvi)
  Barrel sample. Medium-penetrating colour. Nice fruit on the nose, as well as in the mouth entry. Here is blackberry, on the cherry and the initial forest fruit. Nice component of Mediterranean scrub and spice. A comforting Montepulciano, in its absolute pleasantness and typicality. 86/100
• Colline Teramane Docg 2019 Versosera, Velenosi (Ascoli Piceno)
  Very bright colour. Among the most ready and stylistically ‘rich’ wines of the whole preview. Nice depth of liquorice on the fruit, elegant tannins, perspective. A wine that combines the character of Montepulciano and winks at the market without losing its typicality. A very high gastronomic gradient. 87/100
• Colline Teramane Docg 2019 Orsus, Fosso Corno (Torano Nuovo)
  Dull colour compared to many others in the tasting. Yet, on the palate, great character and depth. Tannin in the process of integration, yet elegant. It is convincing for the precision of the fruit, for that cherry, raspberry and rose flowers (as well as violet) that you seem to have (and see) in your glass. The fact that this is a thoroughbred Montepulciano, without compromise, is made clear by that vaguely haematic trait that characterises the beautiful pure expressions of the vine. On the palate, then, it ends up tinged with savour. Complexity, perspective, elegance, harmony. Style to spare. 88/100
• Colline Teramane Docg 2019 Gruè, Cerulli Spinozzi (Canzano)
  Medium-rich colour. Nice rich nose, material, deep, floral and fruity. In the mouth the tannins are a bit intrusive, not supported by the flesh, although present. A wine to appreciate today (better) or in the medium term. 85/100
• Colline Teramane Docg 2019 Antares, San Lorenzo (Castilenti)
  First nose on wood, toffee and vanilla, balsamic, then a nice red citrus comes out. Ready wine, made complex and layered more by the tertiary than by the primary. A good interpretation for some foreign markets and for lovers of full, fat wines. 85/100
• Colline Teramane Docg 2019 MKP, Monti (Controguerra)
  It lacks cleanliness, both on the nose and palate, showing wild notes that are in any case typical of some interpretations of Montepulciano. A wine that, however, has breed and potential. 85/100
• Colline Teramane Docg 2019 La Regia Specula, Contucci Ponno (Roseto degli Abruzzi)
  Great nose, rich and broad, wide and deep, among the most appreciable of the day. Full fruit, spice, liquorice. Even in the mouth it confirms itself as an absolutely interesting wine of millimetric precision. The soft closure regulates the powerful tannins to perfection, offering potential and general pleasantness. A stylish interpretation of the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane. 87/100
• Colline Teramane Docg 2018 Vizzaro, Barone Cornacchia (Torano Nuovo)
  Barrel proof. Violet-coloured nail on the purple-red. Rather layered nose, between fruit, flower and Mediterranean scrub. Balsamic touch. Good use of wood, in terms of integration and ‘dosage’. Tannin that squeezes the pulp a bit. 85/100
• Colline Teramane Docg 2018 Colle Sale, Barone di Valforte (Silvi)
  Medium-rich colour. Lots of spice and Mediterranean scrub (rosemary, laurel) on the nose. Elegance to spare, precise, juicy fruit. The taste is equally elegant and precise. It ranges from cherry to liquorice stick, with a return of the scrub already perceived on the nose. A balanced freshness and a touch (it seems) of residual sugar that ensures drinkability without ever tiring. An enjoyable wine today and, at the same time, one with good prospects. 88/100
• Colline Teramane Docg 2018 Cortalto, Cerulli Spinozzi (Canzano)
  Medium intense colour. Deep nose, on dark spice and Mediterranean scrub. The fruity component lingers a bit on the sidelines. Then it opens up well and everything appears harmonious, including the use of wood. It has a nice, elegant palate that does not however renounce revealing the more rustic and restless sides of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. The finish is lovely, broad and dry, with fruit and liquorice returns. A nice layered and complex wine that will continue to give satisfaction over the years. 89/100
• Colline Teramane Docg 2017 Re, Lepore (Controguerra)
  Medium-rich colour. Plenty of tertiary notes on the nose. It is better appreciated on the palate, revealing itself to be a gastronomic, full, rich wine. A wine with a clear international slant, which nevertheless holds high the flag of the typicality of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo of the Colline Teramane. 87/100
• Colline Teramane Docg 2016 Voluptas, Monti (Controguerra)
  Medium concentration in colour. Shy at first, it comes out with oxygenation revealing good depth and elegance. The liquorice and Mediterranean notes are convincing. Palate played on elegance and a drink of good refinement. To be consumed today or in the medium term. 86/100
• Colline Teramane Docg 2015 Prima Madre, La Quercia (Morro D’Oro)
  Garnet colour and ripe wine nose. It connotes itself by notes of leather, the bloodiness and the depth of the tertiaries. The cherry becomes rhubarb, the flower is dried violet and poutpourri. The taste is just as ripe, with honeyed, haematic and wet woodland chimes. The curtain closes on tamarind. A wine that has reached the peak of its evolution, without being disfigured. SV
• Colline Teramane Docg 2015 Santa Maria dell’Arco (Giulianova)
  Vivid colour, even in the nail reflections. The beautiful depth and richness of the colour is transferred first to the nose and then to the palate. Excellent vitality: elegant tannins, soft, integrated, yet with perspective. Typicality to spare for a thoroughbred Montepulciano that is bursting with elegance and life. An excellent test, in terms of positive refinement. 91/100

ANTEPRIMA COLLINE TERAMANE MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO DOCG RISERVA: RATINGS

• Colline Teramane Docg Riserva 2017 Castellum Vetus, Centorame (Atri)
  Deep ruby. A wine that needs time to open up in the glass and give great satisfaction. A Riserva on fruit and sapidity. Particularly striking is the precision of the concentration of the fruity notes, in a dialogue with the hardness. The result is a taut, fresh, intriguing sip of absolute perspective. 91/100
• Colline Teramane Docg Riserva 2017 Colletrà, Strappelli (Torano Nuovo)
  The colour takes on impenetrable hues. After an initial closure and shyness, it opens up on notes of violets, also displaying a nice full, red fruit. A wine rich in matter and pleasantness, in the interplay between raspberry, strawberry and cherry and a rather elegant tannin. 89/100
• Colline Teramane Docg Riserva 2017 Orsus, Fosso Corno (Torano Nuovo)
  Medium-rich colour. Nose dominated by tertiary. Salinity and fruit on the palate, but always in a context of ‘wood’ notes that are a little too overpowering. A label that nonetheless offers a pleasant drink. 86/100
• Colline Teramane Docg Riserva 2017, Contucci Ponno (Roseto degli Abruzzi)
  Impenetrable colour heralding a nose of tertiary and wild notes that distract from the fruit and flesh. This is a shame, because underneath is a real Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, savoury, taut and balsamic. 82/100
• Colline Teramane Docg Riserva 2017 Terra Bruna, Podere Colle San Massimo (Giulianova).
  Deep ruby. A wine played on elegance. Lots of flower, nice precise fruit. Precious on the palate too: it combines pulpy roundness with sculpted tannins and perspective, yet soft and integrated. Oxygenation (recommended) opens the glass window to the Mediterranean scrub and very pleasant balsamic notes. 90/100
• Colline Teramane Docg Riserva 2016 Opi, Fantini (Roseto degli Abruzzi)
  Lots (too much) vanilla, toasting, toffee, instead of richness, complexity and layering. An absolutely pleasant wine, but too little territorial. 85/100
• Colline Teramane Docg Riserva 2016 Elevito, De Angelis Corvi (Controguerra)
  Full colour. A touch of uncontrolled oxidation prompts a request for a second bottle. The music changes, totally. Here is one of the best Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva not of the vintage, but of the entire Anteprima 2022. This is a wine that reveals itself to be very fresh, on the fruit, deep, balsamic and with a touch of rhubarb on the finish that invites you to drink it. 92/100
• Colline Teramane Docg Riserva 2016 Fonte Cupa, Montori (Controguerra)
  A wine that has everything you can (and should) expect from a 6-year-old Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva. To drink today, it can also give satisfaction at the table with important pairings. 87/100
• Colline Teramane Docg Riserva 2016 Luigi Lepore, Lepore (Controguerra)
  Full, layered nose, pipe smoke, Mediterranean scrub. Fresh touches of rhubarb and liquorice, on the red fruit. Nice full palate, rich, complex, equally layered. Combines pleasantness and typicality better than many other samples. 87/100
• Colline Teramane Docg Riserva 2016, Mazzarosa (Roseto degli Abruzzi)
  Wild and fruity nose. Palate in the same vein. Pleasant to drink thanks to the full fruit. A linear, synthetic wine. 85/100
• Colline Teramane Docg Riserva 2016 Polifemo, Tenuta Terraviva (Tortoreto)
  Not very bright colour compared to other samples. After a first bottle that shows very light signs of refermentation, doubts remain about the cleanliness of nose and smell. SV
• Colline Teramane Docg Riserva 2016 Neromoro, Nicodemi (Notaresco)
  Flower, fruit, lots of wood. The variety is a bit lost. 84/100
• Colline Teramane Docg Riserva 2016 Escol, San Lorenzo (Castilenti)
  The fruit (precise, yet concentrated) paws its way through the tertiary, both on the nose and palate. The result is a powerful nectar, broad, but lacking in terms of layering. Drinkability, however, is rewarded. 85/100
• Colline Teramane Docg Riserva 2015 Torre Migliori, Cerulli Spinozzi (Canzano)
  One of the most intriguing samples of the entire Anteprima 2022, both for its “age” and for its stylistic cut which recalls – if it is given the right “air” in the glass – that of some great Cabernet Franc of international stature, from the Loire or southern Hungary (Villány). It combines measured green notes and a curious hint of curry with fleshy fruit and integrated but forward tannins. A wine to keep in the cellar or to enjoy today, with the taste matching. 91/100
• Colline Teramane Docg Riserva 2015 Pignotto, Monti (Controguerra)
  Another wine that, with the 2015 vintage, shows off intriguing green hues. In the mouth it loses itself in the pleasantness and breadth of the sip. 84/100
• Colline Teramane Docg Riserva 2015, Abbazia di Propezzano (Morro d’Oro)
  Ripe nose, like the garnet colour. Light touch of wildness. Full, rather complex, gastronomic wine. Drinking today. 85/100
• Colline Teramane Docg Riserva 2013 Mastrobono, La Quercia (Morro d’Oro)
  Colour still young. Nose and mouth on the fruit, without the expected stratification and with a rather cumbersome use of wood. Pleasant, overall. 85/100
• Colline Teramane Docg Riserva 2011 Senior, Monti (Controguerra)
  Nice ruby colour. The nose tends towards green and gives flesh and fruit with oxygenation. The tannins are very present on the palate, well counterbalanced by alcohol and fruit, capable of withstanding the blow. A wine that has reached the peak of its evolutionary phase. 85/100

[click here to read this article in Italian, on winemag.it]